Ready to Send: Roadmap to the Ultimate Crag Warm-Up!
Hello fellow climbers!
We recently hosted a sport climbing injury prevention clinic at the SLCA Climbing Festival, and we're excited to share the highlights and key takeaways from this fantastic event, sponsored by Black Diamond.
Location, Location, Location: Camp Roger in the Uintas
First off, we couldn't have asked for a more fun location for a festival than Camp Roger in the Uintas. Our clinic was at Lost and Found Wall which can be found via a short hike from the majestic Hayden Peak Overlook parking lot along Mirror Lake Highway. The incredible views set the stage for an unforgettable day of climbing and learning.
The Warm-Up: Getting Ready for the Crag
Dr. Amy Frugé, who led the clinic, started with an essential warm-up routine designed to prepare our bodies for a day of climbing. Here are some key takeaways:
1. Hip Mobility: Pay attention to your hip mobility and movement on approach. Focus on taking high steps and moving intentionally.
2. Thoracic Extension: Begin with your hands behind your head. Place your elbows on the wall, stick your booty out, exhale, and push your chest into the wall.
3. The Sprinkler: Place your hands behind your head and rotate as if you are looking behind you. Keep your hips facing forward. You should feel stretching in your back between your neck and low back.
4. Neck Extensions: Don't forget your neck! Crimp on your upper traps, retract your chin back (think of puppy licking face), then let your head fall backwards.
5. Shoulder Taps: extend your arms overhead thinking about keeping your elbows by your ears. Bend at your elbows letting your hands fall to the back of your shoulders. Sweep your hands up, in front of you, and down slightly behind your hips. Your arms should be fully extended at your side with your wrist fully extended pointing behind you and away from your body.
6. Elbow/Wrist Tendon Glides: On this exercise we are going to think about “t-rex” to “telling the dog to lay down.” Bring your hands up near your chest, elbows bent and wrists bent with your fingers pointed down to the ground (t-rex). From here you will extend your arms completely to your side with the tops of your hands pointed up towards the sky and fingers pointed in front of you and away from your body (tell the dog to lay down).
7. Finger Tendon Glides: We ask a lot of our fingers when climbing, so warming them up is important! For this exercise you want to remember; show your nails, hid your nails, sock puppet, bear claw, and scary high five.
On the Wall: Improve Your Endurance
Dr. Amy also shared some valuable tips and tricks to make your climbing experience safer and more enjoyable:
Wrist Extension: Extend your wrist as you move to the next hold to reduce pump and climb longer. Think about extending your wrist back and pulling your fingers towards your face as you reach for that next hold.
Strategic Rest: Look for good ledges, stemming opportunities, heel hooks, and more to take short breaks, catch your breath, and calm your nervous system.
Have Fun: Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, remember to have fun! Climbing should be a joyous experience. When you're having fun, you're not just climbing; you're also preventing injuries. Your brain perceives less threat and danger when you're having a blast.
So, as you gear up for your next climbing adventure, keep these valuable insights in mind. A huge thank you to Black Diamond for sponsoring this event, and to all of you who joined us at the SLCA Climbing Festival. Stay safe, climb smart, and always prioritize fun on the rocks!
Happy climbing!